The Heart (Part 3), and Some Soul!

After a good, long sleep, we felt rested and excited about our second day in the villages (despite another very early start). The trip from our hotel to the village of Al Koum Al Akhdar took about an hour, with some delays with our police escort. They are very insistent that all foreigners be escorted if possible. This is not due to any threat, but more to ensure a sense of safety and comfort. The government of Egypt takes great pride in the safe and peaceful image of their country.

The delay gave us a chance to observe the local traffic of the village on their way to work in the morning. Stationed at a bridge, we witnessed what seemed like a scene from hundreds of years ago. With the exception of a few cars every once in a while, most transport themselves and their goods by donkey, horse or cow. A number of women passed by carrying their packages, baskets and goods on their heads. Small children of 4 or 5 were seen leading donkeys or cattle. The colors, sounds and fragrances were mesmerizing. To put a cherry on top, our driver was listening to scriptures being chanted in Arabic on our micro-bus stereo- we had a sound track. We were in a movie.

Arriving in the village of Al Koum Al Akhdar is by now very familiar to me and feels a little bit like coming home. This is the first village that Touch of Love began micro-lending programs in. Dr. Emad Yassa, the director of Touch of Love recognized the need here while visiting on a trip with Habitat for Humanity Egypt. After realizing that each family was similar to the next, and that just giving them money would not bring about change, he developed a micro-lending program in order to create a sustainable source of supply. Al Koum Al Akhdar is a glowing testimony to the success of this system of giving. After only two years, this village is completely self-sustaining. This means that all new loans that are funded here are financed by the interest from the existing loans. Approximately 10 new loans are funded each month with a 100% repayment rate. These statistics are unmatched by any other program that I have ever researched… which is one of the main reasons that I am so involved. Given the immense need and the great number of organizations that exist, I was interested in being part of an effort to create abundance, not an endless chasm of growing need. By providing a means of self support, micro-loans are such an exciting solution. Every dollar is turned into many more. Personal responsibility and dignity are encouraged, as are education, growth and community. These effects are even more valuable than the money itself in countries like Egypt that contend with over population, poverty, lack of education and resources, and constantly changing political and religious pressures and influences.

We spent the day interviewing the newest project developments and checking in with our two social workers in the village. Although no new outside money is necessary for this village, our continued administration and management of resources is required. At this point, with the help of a recently purchased computer, it is easy to keep up with every project. Only one or two visits per year are necessary, if that. What is most important on these trips into the villages is the personal contact and relationships that are built. It is easy to fall back on stereotypes when there is distance, but as each hand is shaken, or smile is shared, the common ground of humanity is found and differences dissolve. Race, religion and economics become only labels. This is bliss.

We wrapped up our visit with an incredible and very generous meal prepared for us by the staff at the office. I feel that no matter how large this organization may become, this small village will always be like a dear family. It is the Genesis of Touch of Love’s efforts, and was also my first contact with this warm and simple side of Egypt.

After our four hour drive back to Cairo, we indulged in heavenly napping, which would end up being the majority of our sleep for the day. We contacted some close friends who happened to be in Cairo at the same time (happy coincidence!) and arranged for a meeting later that night. We took a cab across town to an chic neighborhood on the Nile called Zamelek, which at 8:30 p.m means ludicrous traffic and a 1 hour trip! We had a fantastic reunion with friends, made a few new friends, and had dinner at a bar/cafe called Aubergine. Now for the Soul… they wanted to go dancing! And so, from the poorest and most simple surroundings, we added culture shock to the menu by heading to the poshest club in Cairo called Purple. Are you sensing a color theme? We could have been in L.A. or New York or Paris. Beautiful people, the latest clothes and music, not a covered face or head in sight. Surreal! The two extremes were a bit difficult for me to reconcile and combined with a stomach ache, I was not in the most social state of mind. Despite this, it seems that something greater was at work- I was introduced to the Host of a new television show debuting this winter all over the world. He was completely taken with the story of Touch of Love and wanted to do a segment on his show about it. Could we film right away? Oh Yeah! I mentioned that we were planning to research and interview a new project in two days and he immediately contacted his producer to see if we could coordinate. Serendipity? WOW! Again, I was reminded of the greater purpose that flows around us all the time and how easy it is to miss it. What a day!

For pictures click here. Videos to come soon

The Heart (Part 2)

A bit after 6 a.m Monday morning found us checking out of the hotel, storing our luggage and loading up our overnight bags for the trip to the villages in Upper Egypt. The country is divided into Upper and Lower Egypt, with Lower Egypt in the North next to the Mediterranean and Upper Egypt in the South bordered by Sudan. The logic: the ancient Egyptians felt that because the Nile originates in the South and flows North to the sea that this was the “upper” part. Now, it’s just confusing at first.

The landscape along our journey to the villages borders the Nile and is lush and green; with farming and agriculture being the main economy. Our trip to the first village of Naslit Hana is about a four hour drive (Egyptian country roads!). The sense that you are on the African Continent is very strong here as the green fields and rich vegetation invades your senses with it’s expanse. We arrived at the Habitat for Humanity and Touch of Love headquarters to a greeting that should be reserved for royalty, but is very much a part of this culture of hospitality. After a brief introduction by video to the local non-profit work being done by our host organizations, we went to meet with a local Bishop of the Coptic Church. Touch of Love recently bought a micro-bus for a clinic in this village, and the Bishop wanted to thank us personally for our efforts. These meetings are quite formal in attitude and casual in location. Soft drinks and sweets are always offered and must be accepted with grace no matter how many times in the day a meeting of this kind is attended (4 that day!). Sugar overload!

After our “official meeting”, we headed into the village to meet with individuals who have been the most recent beneficiaries of Touch of Love’s micro-lending program and Habitat for Humanity’s home building programs. We began with a man who had opened up the very first animal medication and nutrition store in the area. The smiles, gratitude and pride of ownership is so contagious. Most of these small businesses are run from the home with the shop or workshop being on the ground floor in the front, and the living quarters in the back and upstairs. We went on from home to home followed by children, guards (just to make sure we were always happy), and business owners whose work we had previously visited. Among the other small business owners that we interviewed and saw that day were grain and feed distributors, grocery store merchants, produce stores, a contractor/supplier, and various animal breeders including goats, ducks, sheep and cows.

One of the most impactful was a man who’s family had been making rugs for generations, but because of the economy in Egypt had been unable to continue. The small loan from Touch of Love had enabled him to begin his rug business again. To say that he was ecstatic to see us is an understatement. He was overwhelmed with joy as he showed us his loom, how he works, his yarns and of course the beautiful rugs that he now creates and sells. Naslit Hana is one of the many villages that Habitat for Humanity works in and the second village project sponsored by Touch of Love. It is the middle growth stage with about 20 loans that have been funded. In about another six months there will be double the number of loans, and the village will be self-sustaining with no further need for outside funding as the interest coming from the existing loans will begin to fuel all the new loans. There are already forty names on the waiting list!

For me, these visits are my most cherished moments in Egypt. I am filled to the brim with hope and the knowledge that though this effort is small, each person matters just as much as I do. The air seems full of possibility as each person expresses the changes and growth that they are now able to work towards. Responsibility, dignity and community are infused with new life.

After our visits were complete, we stopped in at the clinic that recently received the gift of the micro-bus from Touch of Love (more sweets!). The receipt of the micro-bus is treated like a miracle here, and so, again we are treated like visiting dignitaries. The lump of humility in my throat never leaves during the duration of the visit. The work being done there is some of the most sacrificial that I have ever witnessed. All of the staff is volunteer. The patients are seen from about 5 nearby villages, and are mostly cases of hepatitis c, cancer, renal failure, and other chronic and terminal diseases. It is difficult to reign in emotions as these amazing people describe their willingness to devote their lives to others in such desperate circumstances. I always leave here feeling like a selfish schmuck if I compare my measly efforts with these “saints”. Tears flow as soon as we’re on our way out the door.

Our next stop was at a new hospital that is almost complete in a nearby village. Called the Wisdom Hospital, it is privately funded and also has a number of volunteers. There are facilities for dermatology, obgyn, cardiology, and quite a few other specialties that will be a god-send for this remote area. We were shown around by one of the doctors who will be volunteering his time there one day per week. Again, the willingness to give and serve brings a rush of gratitude and emotion. We left there feeling fortunate to witness the lives and service of the generous people working to make a difference in a country where the needs seem endless. We fell upon our small village hotel exhausted and filled with glassy eyed gratitude. A few of us first tried on a nap and then skipped dinner to sleep all the way through the night. Click here for pictures

The Heart (Part 1)

Sitting here in the town of Breda in the Netherlands at the home of some dear friends, I am now finally able to access the internet and take advantage of some free time to catch up on email correspondence and a bit of blog updating. Reflecting back to the last few days, Egypt was a whirlwind, with one meeting, event or adventure after another. There were unexpected gifts, experiences and relationships at every turn. Each trip there becomes the best trip yet… sharing the unique sights, sounds and (even) smells with new visitors and friends makes every time like the first. I feel at once a foreigner and quite at home in the same breath.

After our absurd and wonderful touristic inoculation on Saturday, Sunday found us shifting gears into what I feel is the heart of our travels. We began by visiting one of the first human rights organizations in the Middle East. It is overwhelming to consider the amount of work that is required to even scratch the surface in this part of the world. Those working in this organization are dedicated to hope. They must live it and incarnate it… in Egypt. This is no easy feat. I was humbled as I tried to absorb the magnitude of the need and the willingness and sacrifice of those involved in this endless labour of love. Education is the first order of business, as most living in this region are unaware of even their basic human rights. Political action is slow, so most success is found in grass roots efforts and private campaigning. It is exciting to see the rapid growth as they are gaining momentum. The need for our support cannot be underestimated. Building these cultural and relational bridges during these times of political uncertainty is a valuable contribution and statement for peace. Please contact us if you’re interested in more info.

Our next stop was a school for handicapped children loosely translated “the beloved child”. This school is the first private school for handicapped children in the whole country (there are other government sponsored facilities). This lack of available education and care is a small window into the perspective that is prevalent in Egypt in regard to the handicapped and disabled. In stark contrast, based on the principle of love, each child at this school is cherished as if they are a son or daughter. We witnessed the love in action as the teachers cooked for them, played with them, taught them computer skills, basic motor skills and then took them into their own homes for more intensive bonding and “living by example” educational experiences. We had the chance to spend some time playing with the kids. The beauty of simplicity… they loved being able to check out the pictures we took on the digital camera screens. You imagine the grins on our faces…

We floated from the school to a vocational training center that is in the process of being built out. Impressive in it’s scope, we were infected by the optimism and expectation of our hosts for change. Both the school for the handicapped children and the vocational training center are sponsored by the same human rights and philanthropic organization that we visited at our first stop.

It is easy to become disillusioned and weighed down when faced with the vast resource and educational deficits, but in visiting and supporting just these three efforts, the realization that there are people who care deeply and who dedicate their lives to affecting change is tremendously encouraging. We left contemplating the possibilities that the future holds for those working and being served in these beautiful endeavors. God is not dead. Love is alive. Sometimes in the most unassuming disguise.

We had to make it an early night for our scheduled 6:30 a.m (oh yeah!) departure for the villages of Upper Egypt… pretty easy considering the emotional and mental exertion of the day’s experiences combined with jet lag and wilting heat! Well, on second thought, why sleep? We were in Egypt! So we instead headed out across the street to the Military Academy Stadium for a local football match! The favorite Zamelek against Al Masry. We scored seats in the box, second row (thanks to Dr. Emad Yassa’s contacts!). It was a blast! The night was not too late- in bed by 12:00 or so! We made the most of every moment!

More to come soon… For Pictures click here

The Tourist on Steroids

Seeing the sights in Egypt really never gets old. The distinct differences in just about everything when compared to our culture in the west makes each experience rich with new insights and sometimes mind boggling observations. The sensory overload experience can happen quite quickly when faced with the extraordinary amount of people packed like sardines into one area of the planet. Cairo was built to accomodate approximately one million people. You can imagine the chaos as it now hosts between seventeen and twenty-one million people depending on the time of year!

Determined to show off Cairo’s offerings in all of their glory, we began our day at 9:30 by heading over to the Cairo Museum. Our taxi driver for the day, Mr. Mourad picked us up in a 1960’s Puegot (what I like to affectionately call a “communist car”), and navigated the precarious journey with good humor, a harried look and a lot of horn blowing. The cacophony of horns, the heat and humidity (of course no air conditioner) welcomed us grandly. We arrived at the Museum and met with our private tour guide, Walid. Due to security risks and possible damage to the artifacts, cameras are no longer allowed into the museum, so of course we took as many cheesy photos outside as we could stand in the heat.

Walid, who studied liturature at the British College here in Egypt had a lovely British tinged accent was extremely knowledgable. This is another place that one could literally spend weeks in and never absorb all that is offered. A new 10 hectare museum is being constructed near the pyramids to house the nearly 70% of the items that cannot be displayed due to limited space in the existing museum. Based on the few times that I have been to the museum as it is, I cannot begin imagine having more to take in. The current museum will be converted in to a space dedicated entirely to King Tutankhamun’s Tomb and contents… which are, by the way, not to be missed if possible.

Cold bottled water in hand we spent about 2 1/2 hours in the museum which allowed us to cover about 20% at a very quick pace. Walid highlighted what he finds to be the most fascinating of the stories and pieces (which varies from one guide to another), and told a few pretty good jokes. Air conditioning will be my recommendation for the new museum…

We rounded up our driver and headed for the Pyramids. Those seeing the Pyramids for the first time are always surprised by how suddenly they seem to appear. There’s no warning as you are driving through the maze of Cairo, surrounded by modern buildings and insane traffic and there they are- seemingly right in the middle of the city! Upon closer contact, the city comes right up to the edge of the area only on part of the perimeter- then fades into desert hills as far as you can see.

It is breathtaking! No explaination serves this particular experience the justice it deserves. The adjectives fly… amazing, impossible, mystical, surreal, intense, unexplainable. Your ability to understand or reason this wonder of the world is stolen by the silence of awe. Then the giddiness kicks in… you’re there, seeing them! We headed around to the back side of the prymids and set about to find the best camel ride deal. The prices are very much up for negotiation and can vary wildly. We happily bargained and found our man (and camels). The actual camel ride itself is quite tame, it’s the transition from sitting to standing that on the first ride feels like you’ll be catapulted off. The view of the pyramids set against the back drop of Cairo is at once disturbing and intoxicating. Again, highlighting an almost endless exploration of contrasts in this culture and part of the world. After our camel back perspective and a bit of fraternizing with the camels and camel drivers, we took in the 4500 year old reconstructed Sun Boat, which was found buried next to The Great Pyramid, and the Sphinx. The combination of the heat, minor starvation, the exertion and the dust drained every ounce of our energy. We almost collapsed into the taxi.

After a quick lunch at an outdoor resturaunt (shaded), we made the treck through Garbage Village to the cave churches of Moucatoum. Another surreal experience. Going through the almost alley sized dirt roads filled with the garbage that is being sorted in the homes of this forgotten enclave. This sight and smell experience is one of the most jarring in it’s rawness. More information on this area can be found on the Touch of Love website www.touchofloveinternational.com . Perched directly above Garbage Village, and discovered by accident only about 12 years ago, are the Cave Churches of Moucatoum. These huge caves are the stuff of legend and during one point in history hid thousands of Christians during a time of religious turmoil in Egypt. The sheer size of the caves and their unique current location provide fertile soil for the imagination to take flight into the history and diversity of this culture.

You’d think we would have had enough by now! It was nearly 7:00, we were covered in dust and sweat, our minds were filled with so many impressions and information, but we were not to be detered. Khan Il Khalili still drew us all the way across town to discover it’s treasures. Khan Il Khalili is one of the world’s oldest bazaar and is literally translated ” the alley of friends”. It is filled with every sort of jewely, clothing, leather, lamps, trinkets, charms and junk. The quality ranges from superb to very poor and the prices follow suit. It is a feast for the eyes. Along each alley the shop keepers vie for your business by means of entreating, bullying and seduction. We snuck into a hidden jewel that I found on one of my last trips called the Nagib Mahfouz Coffee Shop. Nagib Mahfouz won the Nobel Prize for Literature and is considered a hero by most Egyptions. This little cafe was where he spent much of his time talking with friends, writing and giving lectures. Filled with the lovely smells of coffee, tea, shisha and rich pastries we felt like we had found an oasis. We sunk into the corner sofas and fell upon our tea and shisha like survivors. The delicate Egyptian pastries Kounefa and Bassboosa were like our first desserts. It felt like luxury after our kamikazi (sp?) tourism adventure. We had our boots shined (wow,dusty!) and listened to some live traditional music. It finished our day with a cherry. MMMmmm…. To bed! Check out the pictures here

Cultural Immersion Trip 2008- Egypt/Europe

Cultural Immersion Trip 2008- Egypt

i’m never unaffected upon my arrival in egypt. although there is no longer much that is mysterious or exotic feeling after this many trips (5), i am still taken with the people, the culture and the study in contrasts. once the most creative, educated and vibrant culture in the world, egypt now suffers third world standards. faded glory is evident at every turn. innate intelligence and hospitality are at odds with the lack of education and hopelessness that are fueled by a political system motivated by increasingly strong pressure from extreme perspectives. not to be overlooked though is the overall sense that despite negative media on both sides, for the most part these are warm and welcoming people with a sincere desire to connect and understand.

we’re picking up more life.style.tribe. travellers from the airport tonight and having dinner with the president of habitat for humanity egypt at our hotel in heliopolis (neighborhood in cairo). i think we’ll be doing a bit of the tourist show tomorrow for those that have not been to egypt- including the pyramids, the cairo museum, khana khalili (one of the world’s oldest markets) and hopefully a faluka (small sailboat) ride along the nile at night when it’s cooler. sunday will be spent connecting with friends, seeing more sights and maybe doing a little shopping.

monday starts our travels into the villages with teams from habitat for humanity and touch of love. we’ll be spending our first day in al koum al akdar, which is touch of love’s first completely self-sustaining village. we’ll be there mostly just to reconnect with touch of love staff, check in with a few of the small business owners who have received loans (they have over 350 loans in this village alone!), visit with the villagers and spend some time with the local habitat for humanity team there. the second day will find us in al minnia, touch of love’s second largest village project. we’ll be checking in on the operations, going over some of the applications, and visiting a few of the small business loan recipients there as well. this is a newer project and still requires a bit more attention. aside from the actual work and accountability that we will be there to accomplish, one of the most important and valuable effects of these visits is the impact that it has on the perspective of the local people towards westerners and especially americans. by being there in person, shaking their hands or simply smiling at them, many of the misinformation and negative impressions are dispelled and replaced with friendship. their generosity and hospitality are overwhelming and humbling. the exchanges and the offerings being extended on both sides are filled with peace and are transcendant of culture, religion, and economics.

wednesday we’ll be back to cairo to connect with the habitat for humanity staff at their cairo headquarters, and then visit the childrens cancer hospital (we are sending a shipment of 500 wheelchairs to them in october). this will likely be the most emotional part of the trip. these kids rarely get visitors and live a very poor quality of life with the exception of a couple of organizations coming in a few times a year. we’ll be joining a group call the “mercy team” who’ll be doing some entertaining for the kids. on thursday we’ll be touring a very poor suburb of cairo to evaluate how we might begin a micro-lending program there. this would be our first endeavor in an urban setting. we have a proposal prepared and have possible interest from some very influential people in egypt. say some prayers for us! friday is still being decided, but we hope to travel by train to alexandria to visit some friends and take in a few sights. then, as quickly as we arrived, we will be gone! saturday night departure for europe.

i’ll try to send some more updates through the week if i have access to a computer and time!

living each moment,
yvonne